Floor Fitting FAQ's

This list of questions is only meant to be an introduction to the issues that need considering. There is a huge amount of information available on the internet and there is no substitute for discussing your project face to face with your supplier and your fitter. Attitudes and opinions can differ on the same topic and in many cases there is more than one right way to tackle a situation. Good floor fitting takes time, care and skill. It is worth investing in this to achieve a beautiful result that will last a lifetime.

Why fit a wooden floor?
The main reason we love wooden flooring is for its natural beauty. It will add character and warmth to any room. However, you may not have considered these points

• Wooden floors are extremely durable if treated properly. Just visit a British stately home for proof of this.
• A fitted hardwood floor will add value to your property over and above the cost of purchasing and installing it.
• Easy daily maintenance. Ever tried cleaning red wine off a carpet? How about porridge? Wooden floors win every time.
• Dust mites. See our floor sanding FAQs for this one.

What are the different types of wooden flooring?
The two main choices are solid or engineered. The variety is enormous.
Solid floors are made from one piece of wood. They vary in thickness (usually 18mm – 25mm), width (not usually more than 150mm) and length (most commonly random lengths, typically 300mm – 1800mm). Also available as parquet blocks.
Engineered boards are a thin veneer (1mm – 6mm) attached to a ply base. Like solid, they also vary in thickness, width and length but because of the way they are manufactured can be thinner (as little as  14mm) or wider (up to 250mm). Engineered boards are sometimes referred to as real wood laminates.
The difference between the solid and engineered is often impossible to tell once fitted. Furthermore, no floor can be sanded beyond the wear layer (i.e. the part of the board above the tongue and groove) so many engineered boards are a match for solid boards when it comes to sanding. Finally, solid wood floors are not recommended in some environments meaning engineered is the only option.

What other options are there?
The choices below apply to both solid and engineered.

• Pre-finished or unfinished. Most floors come with a factory applied lacquer. The layers are sprayed on and cured under U.V. Light. This is much tougher than anything that a floor fitter or sander could apply and some manufacturers will offer a 20 or 30 year guarantee for domestic use. However, it can look artificial. Consequently, pre-oiled floors are becoming more popular due to their warmer, natural appearance. An unfinished floor needs to be sanded and sealed after fitting. This adds to the cost but the finish can be closely tailored to your requirements. It is also a way of achieving a floor without bevels.
• Grade of wood. Most retailers offer wooden flooring in grades or classes, such as I, II or III or A, B or C. Some will use terms such as Prime, Factory and Rustic or Select, Traditional and Country grade. Wood at the top end of the scale should have minimal knots and little colour variation, while wood at the bottom end will have large filled knots, noticeable colour variation and unusual grain patterns. There should be no drop in the quality of the machining or finishing of the wood. All grades will be of equal strength and durability; indeed, some people prefer the character of the lower grades. You will also pay more for Prime or A-grade stock.
• Species. Oak is by far the most commonly used wood for hardwood flooring but there are dozens of different types of tree used, as well as different species of the same tree. A visit to a well stocked showroom is recommended, even if you decide to buy online.
• Treatments or special finishes. There is a big selection of alternative looks available. Some are based on traditional practices, such as limed or smoked finishes, while some are very contemporary.

When should I purchase my wooden floor?
Your wooden floor should be purchased at least one week before fitting and stored at normal room temperature. Do not take delivery until plastering, cement work, decorating and all wet work is completely dry. Don't unpack the wood but ventilation under the packs is helpful.

How much should I buy?
Measure the area to be fitted and add 10%. This will allow for wastage/offcuts during fitting.

How is a wooden floor fitted?
There are four methods of fitting a wooden floor.

• Secret nailing. Nails are driven at 45 degrees into the side face of the board, next to the tongue, and countersunk. When the next row is introduced the groove hides the nail and the hammer blows ensures it is tight against the previous row. This method can only be used over a wooden sub-floor or joists.
• Glue. Specialist flooring adhesive is used to glue the floor down, typically to a concrete sub-floor. Some flooring has grooves machined into the underside to accommodate glue but it is not essential. The cost of glue will usually add £2 or £3 per square metre to the cost of fitting a floor.
• Floating, glued. The boards are glued to each other but not to the sub-floor. The weight of the floor holds it in place and a padded underlay is used to ensure irregularities in the sub-floor do not cause a problem. If underlay is a requirement of the project, for example due to noise issues, then the floor must be floated. Underlay cannot be used with nailed or glued floors.
• Floating, click. Exactly the same as above but the boards are machined in such a way that they lock together without the need for glue. Usually they need to be introduced at an acute angle to the previous row. When they are flattened into place they lock firmly together. Most commonly found in engineered boards but there are a few examples of solid available.

What happens at the edge of a room?
Wooden floors must be fitted with an expansion gap, typically 10mm although very large rooms may need more. There are two ways of concealing this gap. Either the skirting boards can be removed, the floor fitted and the skirting replaced. If this is not possible then a bead or scotia needs to be applied around the edge instead. Also doors and frames need to be cut to allow the floor to fit under them.

What about underfloor heating?
Underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular as it is an environmentally friendly way to heat a room. However, you need to discuss with your supplier if a particular type of wooden flooring is compatible.

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